Paris: Day 2

Even the subway stations look ... French (despite making New York's stations look decent on the inside)

Passing the Louvre on our way toward Avenue des Champs Elysees (yes, we walked a lot)

Outside the Metro's Louvre stop

Statue of Jeanne d'Arc near Jardin des Tuileries

We reached the Tuileries Garden, which we're sure is lush and green during the spring and summer. 

And then you see it: This was Bich's first view of Tour Eiffel.

It doesn't look that far away, does it?

That is a lie.

But there was a holiday market that reminded me much of Union Square's along the way, offering such goodies as meats and cheeses, crepes and mulled wine.

The Grand Palais des Champs-Elysses

Brooke must be fed at regular intervals (this was ham on pretzel bread)

Much as the U.S. owes its existence to France, France owes a little to us.

Ah, the Arc de Triomphe -- perhaps the greatest self-testament to ego ever built

We walked across Place Charles de Gaulle to the other side of the arch, figuring we'd find a less-crowded cafe where the other tourists weren't heading. We were right.

Again, regular intervals.

Brooke never trusts Rich when crossing the street.

Despite being a massive monument to celebrate the military prowess of Napoleon, who failed colossally just a few years later, it is pretty impressive.

Rich always indulged our fellow tourists when they asked for pictures -- "vacation karma," he calls it. By the end of the trip, he was wondering aloud, "When does all that karma help us?"

Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, from World War I

Up the stairs

From the top of Arc de Triomphe

Down, down, down

A city full of gardens and statues

We made our way from the arch toward Tour Eiffel, through old, quiet streets that were home to very rich people and beautiful architecture, before reaching a park that, well, was not so nice.

And that was as close as we got.

I hadn't done enough research to know that the tower has an online ticketing system ... and tours were sold out for the next four days.

Gotta admit, that hurt a little bit: We made it to Paris and didn't even go up the Eiffel Tower.

Ah, well. We heard that the best view in Paris is of the tower, and you don't get that from the tower, and we were getting some pretty gorgeous views elsewhere (Arc de Triomphe, later Centre Pompidou and Sacre Couer). So the bummy factor was eased a bit.

 Back to walking again -- yes, my feet hurt, and yes, I was cranky

We decided to head to Musee d'Orsay.

 

 Promises of cafe?

 Ol' TJ here loved Paris

And then we saw the line for Musee d'Orsay -- even for Pass holders -- and I nearly lost my mind. We decided to wait until Thursday, when the museum is open late. Off to the Louvre.

(This one's for Aunt Connie -- people selling knockoff bags outside the Louvre)

Ah, the Musee du Louvre. We were split on this one: I had no desire to go (Musee d'Orsay was top of my list, absolutely), while Rich wanted to see the Mona Lisa. I tried to explain that 1) the painting is tiny and 2) it's a mob scene to get to her. But off we went, after we'd bought the Paris Museum Pass -- best investment ever, as it took my cranky ass to the front of the line, prompting Rich to say, "That's the best smile I've seen from you all day." 

I really don't like crowds.

Anyway ...

Heading toward the Louvre 

 Front of the line, post-security

That's all you really need to know. 

After that, however, we headed off to the relatively quiet wing of the French Impressionists, for my sake. It's a shame so many people go simply for the Mona Lisa, because the Louvre is Mecca for art buffs and history lovers, and it should take you a few days to even get a taste of it. And then we simply explored some more and tried not to smack the hell out of fellow tourists who had no idea that they were in the presence of some amazing art.

When people tell you it's the French who are rude, they are wrong: The French just hate tourists who rudely march into their country and refuse to try to speak French, refuse to dress with some dignity and run into people as they blindly use their massive cameras and tripods and don't actually live the beauty around them. I really don't blame the French. I was practically murderous at some points. (And I found the locals quite lovely.)

  One of the many courtyards

I found the Venus de Milo far more impressive and easier to get to.

 Rich: Everyone's so busy looking at Venus that I could probably lick this one's head. Dare me? (He didn't.)

 Fun sculpture

 Inside I.M. Pei's glass-and-steel pyramid

Cafe stop!

Quick stop for postcards (and a reminder of Binyamin)

So off we went in search of dinner.

Le Coude Fou was a really fun place, lively and packed (it was the only place in Paris where we had to wait, actually) full of locals. And the murals were quite hilarious.

Soupe de carottes au cumin 

Crottin de chevre chaud et sa salade verte (Seriously, how do you go wrong with a fresh salad in which you dip it into a bowl full of cheese??)

 Saute de veau aux olives

 Panache de poissons au beurre nantais

Yet another dinner we didn't like? Riiiiight.

 Apple tart (their other desserts were sold out -- bummer)

  Tiramisu (still quite good despite not being my top choice)