They say Paris is at its most beautiful when it rains.
"They" are not wrong (though this picture might not show it).
After we arrived at our apartment in Le Marais (and I hurriedly put on full makeup, as I realized very quickly that this just isn't a city where you go without, even if you've been traveling), we freshened up and headed out, eventually crossing the Seine and walking down the Left Bank.
Here, we crossed back over the Seine to Ile Saint-Louis, an island that splits the river and feels like an oasis of calm, full of tiny cheese and wine shops, specialty stores and perfection.
(Before we crossed, a view of Notre Dame)
As usual, we had a hard time deciding on a restaurant, but we finally chose this one ...
... where the very patient, very hard-working waitress let me practice a little French. Most important phrases: how to say "thank you," "please," "hello," "good night" and "I want." Or point and look pleading.
CHEESE. WONDERFUL CHEESE.
Cheese turned into dinner, though, because we liked our spot at the window overlooking the street.
Chicken paillard with asparagus
Duck confit and potatoes
Oh, no, we didn't like it at all ...
The entire city is full of these wonderful cafes -- and the outdoor seating is open year-round. Everyone just sits outside with their outerwear, heaters on full blast (if they have them); sometimes the cafes have clear plastic all-weather covers for protection, and it bothers no one. It is fabulous.
Back across the river, we encountered Notre Dame again. Glad we took our pictures then, because Notre Dame is actually at its best at night when most of the crowds are gone.
Christmas tree in front of the cathedral
We crossed again to St. Germain and the Latin Quarter, a lively, touristy area full of people looking for a good time and a cheap bite.
We did stop here to check the guidebook and grab a beer (and use the toilet -- there are public toilets all over but you pay for them, and I just couldn't bring myself to use one)
We stopped at another, Le Chameleon, after that. We did a lot of stopping for just one beer, or one wine, or a warming bowl of soup.
Walking back
We then stopped at a bar about a block from our apartment, Cafe Beaubourg, for a glass.
And then we discovered the vibrant gay district of Le Marais, and stopped for some tapenade. And more wine.
Rich shows off his fancy Paris scarf (11 Euros! We were so proud and happy we didn't splurge on the 150-pound cashmere one we liked in London)
And then we hit the grocery store to keep a few things in the flat like wine, bread and breakfast.
Only in Europe would you find the liquor next to the Special K.
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